|
1
|
|
|
2
|
- Start-to-Finish Timeline
- Deciding What to Sell
- Deciding How to Sell
- Selling to Private Buyers
- Selling to the Public
- Donating Unsold Items
- Preparing the Home for Sale or Rent
- Recording Sales & Expenses
|
|
3
|
- Whether you hold a public or private sale, liquidating the personal
- property and leaving the residence real estate ready is a time consuming
- and labor intensive job. At a
reasonable minimum, you will need to be on
- site for at least 9 full days, and possibly more since unforeseen
- circumstances may arise. Here’s
how the timeline looks:
- Sales: (Scheduling, preparation, and re-staging) 2
people, 4 days = 32 hours
- Labor: (Boxing & bagging for charity)
2 people, 3 days = 24
hours
- Charity Pick Up: (Someone must be onsite)
1 person, 1 day =
8 hours
- Hauling & Disposal: (Using a professional hauler) 4 people, 1 day =
8 hours
- Final Cleaning:
2 people, 1 day =
8 hours
- Total Time Onsite: 72 hours
- Total Person Hours: 192 hours
|
|
4
|
- Additionally, you will need to set aside time to:
- Find and schedule your buyers.
- Supervise any tradesmen you hire to repair or paint the house.
- Do a final walk-through with the family or real estate agent.
- Perform the final accounting.
- All in all, first time do-it-yourselfers will find it takes from 5 to 8
weeks
- from start to finish, while a competent professional firm can usually
- complete the job within 2 to 3 weeks. In deciding whether to do it
yourself
- or hire a professional firm to do it for you, be sure to take into
account
- what your time is worth.
|
|
5
|
- Consult with family members
- Agree to have one person take responsibility for all duties and
activities connected with disposal of the personal property.
- Consider having valuable items and collectibles professionally
appraised.
- Distribute property evenly and fairly, taking into consideration both
sentimental and monetary values.
- Consider allowing friends of the family to take keepsakes or mementos.
- In the event of irreconcilable differences, consider retaining the
services of a dispute resolution professional.
- Arrange to store or move saved items
- Agree on a final deadline to move or store the items you want to keep.
- Do*not* attempt to store items you want to keep on the premises; they
may be mistakenly sold or dumped in the liquidation process, or become
obstacles to tradesmen you may hire after the liquidation.
|
|
6
|
- Private Buyers
- Private sales enables the disposal of personal property more quickly
with less expense and risk than holding sales open to the public.
- Dealers & private buyers know the resale or collectible value of
items and are willing to pay more than the general public.
- Liability and the possibility of accident, breakage, and theft are
lowered by inviting professional buyers and dealers to visit the site.
- Unadvertised private sales reduce the risk of burglary or vandalism of
the vacant residence.
- Dealers & private buyers buy multiple items or items in lots.
- Dealers & private buyers don’t issue bad checks.
- Dealers & private buyers show more respect for the property.
|
|
7
|
- Public Sales
- Holding public sales incurs additional time, labor, and expense.
- The public at large is generally looking for bargains.
- Liability and the possibility of accident, breakage, and theft are
increased with public sales.
- Advertised public sales increase the risk of burglary or vandalism of
the vacant residence.
- While buyers from the general public may buy multiple items, they often
purchase only one or two items at a time.
- Many estate sale aficionados enjoy haggling.
- Public buyers leave the residence in a mess.
- Classified advertising is more expensive than you think.
- Presently, a classified ad in the San Francisco Chronicle under the
heading of Estate Sales costs an average of about $1.75 per word,
excluding a headline. Including a
bold face headline will increase the cost of the ad by another $22.77.
|
|
8
|
- Tips on Selling
- Keep in mind that the true value of an estate lies in the sale or rental
of the real property, not the personal property. And in real estate
sales, time to market usually counts.
- Remember that in most cases, the original retail value, even for
antiques, is much greater than the resale value of second-hand property,
because the original seller already made the profit. In other words, it
might not be worth as much as you think.
- If you have the personal property appraised, be sure to tell the
appraiser what it’s for. There may be vast dollar-amount differences in
appraised values depending on whether it’s for resale, retail, or
insurance purposes.
- If you sell to private buyers and dealers, make it clear that you expect
to receive at least 50% of what they think they will be able to resell
it for. Most dealers consider that fair, and will honor your fairness
with their honesty.
- Some buyers prefer you to set the price, instead. Do your research. eBay
and second-hand stores are a good resources.
- When in doubt, sell it. A smaller price may be better than not selling
it at all.
|
|
9
|
- What’s Hard to Sell
- Pianos and organs.
- Whether you sell or donate a piano, insist that it only be removed by a
professional piano mover, for purposes of liability.
- Clothing, unless it’s vintage, high-end famous-maker, or very
fashionable.
- Upholstered furniture, especially if the occupant had a cat.
- Grandfather clocks
- Very large items such as display cabinets and king size beds.
- Kitchenware and appliances, especially microwaves & toaster ovens.
- Blankets, linens, & tablecloths. Lace anything is a hard sell.
- Most books, except for first editions and collections of antiquarian
value.
- Knick-knacks and modern commemorative anything.
- Decorative paintings, photos, & other eye candy for walls.
- Pianos
- Pianos
- Pianos
|
|
10
|
- Tips on Selling
- If you’re thinking of using an auction house for anything but the most
valuable of items, read this article first. You’ll be glad you did.
- http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?file=/chronicle/archive/2003/11/30/CM68148.DTL
- EXCERPT:
- Talk to Michaan and his partner Jerry Goldman about the genesis of
their 1- year-old auction house, and you're bound to hear The Rug Story.
Michaan was redoing a room in his house a few years ago and decided to
consign a $400 rug to a local auctioneer.
- "By the time they finished shuffling it around from one auction to
another and charging me this fee and that fee and the other fee, it
finally was sold," Michaan said. "I got my settlement papers
and I owed them $15."
- Goldman has an equally tragic sequel - The Chair Story. "I had a
set of chairs that were reserved at $2,500 at an auction house,"
Goldman said. "It cost me $500 to get them back because they didn't
sell."
|
|
11
|
- Do Your Research
- Take an inventory of what you have for sale, categorizing it first by
type of item and then by value.
- First, group by function, such as Furniture, Collectibles, Antiques,
Books, Clothing, China, Kitchenware, etc.
- Second, group by value, such as Desirable, Ordinary, Passable, and Junk.
- Categorize your buyers by value, that is Primary Buyers (for good
furniture, antiques, and high-end collectibles), Secondary Specialty
Buyers (for clothing, kitchenware, tools, collectibles, small items,
yard & garden goods, etc.) and Low End Buyers (for whatever the
other buyers don’t want).
- Find comparable items in retail stores and online auction sites to help
give you a sense of what’s actually selling and what they’re selling for
in stores.
|
|
12
|
- Tips for the Private Sale
- Remember that you will get about half the retail or auction prices you
see because your buyers are resellers themselves.
- Ask your potential buyers what their preferred buying schedules
are. Some close their stores on
Monday in order to buy stocks for resale, some prefer weekends or
certain times of day.
- Give your private buyers plenty of lead time before the sale date.
- Bring in the furniture and high-end primary buyers first.
- Regroup and restage items by category after the first round of buyers in
order to make it convenient for your specialty buyers.
- Remember that the last round of buyers, or “cleaners”, will pay much
less for the leftovers your first 2 tiers of buyers didn’t want, often
just pennies on the dollar.
|
|
13
|
- Tips for the Public Sale
- Make sure any items you don’t want to sell are removed from the house.
- Have a supply of boxes and paper or plastic bags.
- Have at least 3 people to help each other conduct sales.
- Know what the minimum amount is you want for sales items.
- Be prepared for haggling.
- Make sure everyone conducting the sale has a receipt book, and indicate
whether it was paid for by check or cash. If by check, note the name and driver’s license number on
the sales slip.
- Station one person by the door.
- Have a name and number of a local hauler or moving company to give to
the customer if the item is large or heavy.
|
|
14
|
- Tips for the Public Sale
- Make sure there is toilet paper, soap, and towels in the bathrooms.
- Beware of people adding to their pile of items after they’ve already
paid.
- Keep an eye on the kids so they don’t break or mar anything of value.
- Be prepared for moments of sheer pandemonium, and keep a cool head.
- No matter what time you advertised the sale to start, you will have
customers waiting for you when you arrive.
- It’s smart to put prices on any item you want to sell for $5 or more.
- Chat up your customers. Most of them will turn out to be quite nice
people and they’ll buy more things if they feel comfortable with you.
|
|
15
|
- Choose the Charity
- Does the charity pick up items or do you have to deliver them?
- What types of items will they not accept?
- Most charities will not accept mattresses, computers, or clothing and
small items that have not been boxed or bagged. Some charities will
accept a wider range of donated items than others.
- Does the charity have valuation guidelines?
- Will the charity give you a receipt for the items?
- For charity pick up, how much advance notice do they need?
- Consider different charities for different types of items.
- For example, the SPCA welcomes quilts, towels, and blankets for their
ill animals. Personal items of ethnic or historical interest may be of
value to different cultural centers. A local church may welcome the
donation of an unsold piano or organ.
|
|
16
|
- Hauling & Disposal
- Consider hiring a local hauler to do the job for you.
- A reputable hauler will dispose of everything for you in a legal manner
that is kind to the environment.
- Separate large metal objects such as appliances from other debris.
Landfills charge extra for appliances, recycle companies do not.
- Landfills will also often charge extra for some large items, such as
mattresses and box springs.
- Make separate arrangements for hazardous waste such as paints, thinners,
fertilizer, and motor oil. Landfills will not accept them.
- Consider ordering a disposal bin from your local waste management
company. They will haul and dispose of the debris for you.
- Repairs, Painting, & Final Cleaning
- Your real estate agent will usually assist you to do this.
|
|
17
|
- The Final Accounting
- Make photocopies of everything, including sales & expense receipts,
appraisals, and other relevant materials.
- Consider putting all sales and expenses in a spreadsheet for convenience
of your attorney or accountant.
- Keep a hard copy for yourself and give one to all other interested
parties, including family members.
|